
One afternoon in my fifteenth year, I was wandering morosely around the house. Probably it was raining, which meant I couldn’t go horseback riding, and I was kvetching (that’s Yiddish slang for complaining) about having nothing to do.
My father handed me a book. “Read this,” he said.
It was an old, mildew-smelling tome he’d no doubt unearthed from our dank basement. I looked at the title: What is a Jew, by Morris N. Kertzer.
My jaw dropped. “It’s summer,” I said, the subtext being that learning should only happen during the school year. I spun on my heel and walked away.
Growing up, I attended Sunday and Hebrew school, went to synagogue on all the major holidays, and lit candles on the Sabbath. Like my parents, I followed the basic rules of kashrut, or kosher eating: I avoided pig products and shellfish, and never mixed meat with dairy. At Passover I skipped bread for a week; on Yom Kippur, I fasted.
Thankfully, the foods I was allowed more than made up for the forbidden ones. And I was elated to see so many of them at Chattanooga’s first Jewish food festival, Nosh-a-Nooga, which was held Sunday, August 18th at Waterhouse Pavilion.
Nosh-a-Nooga was put together by the Jewish Federation of Greater Chattanooga. I caught up with Executive Director Michael Dzik outside the pavilion just as the event was getting underway, and asked him what the purpose of the festival was.
“We wanted to bring the Jewish community together,” Dzik said, “but we also wanted to share some of our culture and traditions with all of Chattanooga.” Forty-five volunteers, including the local home chefs who prepared the various foods—some from recipes handed down over generations—made the event possible. Tickets were a dollar; each “nosh,” or sample, cost between two and four tickets.
Jewish Federation program director Ann Treadwell explained how the festival was laid out. Lining one side of the pavilion were the “glatt” kosher foods; for the uninitiated, or those who did not finish (or start) What is a Jew, glatt kosher means that the lungs of the animal slaughtered for meat were smooth and without adhesions. Less technically, it’s a term applied to foods that meet the highest standards of kashrut. Foods that did not meet the very strictest kosher guidelines could be found on the opposite side.
I made my way around the crowded pavilion, gathering goodies as I went. Bourekas? Yes, please! These are savory pastries, or hand pies, formed into a triangle and stuffed with a variety of vegetables. They are a mash-up of the deep-fried dumplings that originated in Asia, and the empanadas of the Sephardic Jews of Turkey. My boureka was satisfyingly warm, and the phyllo crust was nicely tanned, flaky and crunchy all at once.
Then I came upon the rugalach, a treat I remember from the Rosh Hashanah (Jewish New Year) celebrations of my youth, when it’s traditional to eat sweet foods for a sweet new year. Little twists of buttery dough wrapped around a jam filling and baked to a golden brown, they are comfortingly sweet.
The knish, a traditional Ashkenazi Jewish snack food, is made by forming a round dough ball and filling it with mashed potatoes or grains, caramelized onion, spinach, mushroom—really, the sky’s the limit. I dragged mine through a dollop of grainy mustard, and an entire Jewish deli bloomed in my head.
Little round balls of chremzel: matzo meal rolled in cinnamon and honey, then baked in more honey, were served warm. Think of a fritter, with a little more density, lounging in a bath of honey, waiting to be scooped up and served. This was comfort food at its finest, as was the lokshen (noodle) kugel, an Eastern European dish that dates back to the 1500s, originally made with leftover bread, now mostly made with either noodle or potato and often lightly sweetened with raisins and other fruit.
Round, twice-baked cookies called biscochos (also known in Mexico as wedding cookies) were delicate and lightly sweetened, and very similar to shortbread. These are Sephardic in origin, and traditionally make an appearance at Chanukah and Purim. They are usually formed into open rings; the ones I had looked like little flowers.
Whole, beautifully braided challah loaves were available for purchase; this is a traditional bread in kosher Jewish households as it is pareve, i.e. made without meat or dairy (oil subs in for butter), and so can accompany either meat or dairy meals.
While you might be tempted to think of babka as a cake, it is actually a brioche bread. While similar to challah, a babka boasts plenty of butter (as well as sugar) and the dough is slathered with a variety of fillings (Nutella, cinnamon, chocolate, fruity jams—almost nothing is off the table) and then rolled over and over on itself and baked. The finished product looks like a twisty layer cake. (I will be thinking about that chocolate babka for a very long time.)
Also on tap: bagels, lox and cream cheese; falafel balls and a traditional Israeli salad of tomato, cucumber, and onion; mandelbrot (mandel bread), an Ashkenazi Jewish cookie very similar to biscotti; brisket sliders; and matzo ball soup. If you left hungry, that was on you.
When I left, the pavilion was so packed it was hard to move between the tables and chairs, and the line to get inside was a block long. Something tells me that this first Jewish Food festival will not be Chattanooga’s last.